What Inspires Me? #5 Flower Bulbs

What comes wrapped in a plain brown wrapper, stirs anticipatory longing, brings lasting smiles but will not prompt a raid from the vice-squad or disapproval from the noisy lady around the corner?

Flower Bulbs!

Flower bulbs are Mother Nature’s winter gifts. When the holidays are over, it’s time to bust out the bulbs!

Amaryllis, hyacinth, daffodils, tulips, grape muscari, paper whites are some tried-and true indoor bloomers. Here’s the link to Holland Bulbs—which are all on sale NOW!

One tiny hyacinth bulb sprouting in the window is a bright spot on the darkest day.

Flowering Bulbs are the most forgiving, best performers of all! I mean it—no matter how black your thumb!

Buy Bulbs: Buy them when you see them…especially on sale! Spring blooming bulbs sold for fall planting are fabulous winter inside bloomers.

Sprouted already, no problem. In a box with a pot? Sure! Without a pot or dirt or directions? Yes! If they are shriveled or squishy? NO

Make sure the bulbs you buy are firm like a crisp apple, not withered, not soft, not moist.

Chill Bulbs: Spring blooming bulbs need to be winterized for 6-8 weeks before planting. So put them in a cool dark place at white wine temp, chilled but not freezing 40-45 degrees. You can plant them and then store them in the dark or you can store the bulbs in a brown paper bag into the fridge. The unused veggie drawer in your fridge is perfect—but not—repeat not—with fruit or they will not bloom. (I keep them away from veggies, too.)

“Plant Bulbs: Hah! More like set them in dirt or dirt substitute such as a bed of rocks, marbles, glass chips, on in a bud vase with water. (Bud vases can be any vessel with a top narrow enough to hold the bulb in place above water.

Teachers! Parents! Grandparents! Plant at least one bulb in a clear long-necked vase as shown in these pictures. The kids, and kid in you, will love watching the roots develop as the bulb sprouts.

ONE is all you need. One bulb in a vase is a focal point. Even one tiny crocus, 2-inch crocus makes a statement. Otherwise, plant in groups—odd numbers 3-5-7

Some Now; Some Later! Just because bulbs come in packets you don’t need to plant them all at once. Pull them out a few at a time for a pop of color. When one begins to bloom, I pull out a new bulb and start it.

Not my manicured nails; not my bulbs either but, definitely daffodil bulbs.

Rule of thumb: Think light bulb in reverse when planting: pointy end up, globe side down.

Daffodil bulbs and others sold in the fall/winter for spring blooming (Like these pictured) NEED to be winterized for 6-8 weeks or they won’t bloom. Take them out of plastic, put them in a paper bag or box and pop them in the wine fridge.

Bulbs sold in box stores as gifts (amaryllis & paperwhites) have already been winterized. If you want to stall blooming, store them. Or plant and watch now!

Teacher Tip: I have teacher friends who use bulbs as a math and science measuring unit—they have the kids measure and chart the growth—especially of amaryllis which, like these shown have 4-foot-long stalks. Amaryllis grow inches in a day…INCHES! Such fun!

Amaryllis coated in wax, like these from TulipWorld, don’t even need water! That’s how forgiving bulbs are!

Plant Bulbs: Hah! More like set them in dirt or dirt substitute such as a bed of rocks, marbles, glass chips, on in a bud vase with water. (Bud vases can be any vessel with a top narrow enough to hold the bulb in place above water.

MIX bulbs if you’d like. The size of the bulb corresponds to the size of the plant and flower. Plant tiny bulbs on the outside, largest on the inside.

Water is huge. Water is key! Water can be the enemy: If planting in soil, moisten the soil well, soak it and stir it and make sure it’s moist all the way through.

If planting in anything else, nestle the bulb into the medium so the base of the bulb is just barely, maybe 10%, below the surface. A reverse iceberg.

At first, you want the tip of the bulb, the fattest part, to be damp because that stimulates the bulb-saying wet=spring=sprout. But not soaked, not wallowing. Do not submerge bulb.

Scroll up or down and zoom in close on one of those amaryllis. Notice how those thirsty greedy roots are reaching into the water. The water is not touching the bulb.

Beyond that initial planting, DO NOT WATER SO MUCH THAT THE BULB GETS WET. Repeat: DO NOT LET THE BULB SIT IN WATER. Repeat: IF THE BULB SITS IN WATER, IT WILL ROT AND STINK.

VODKA: The trick to keeping bulbs from growing too long and leggy—and having to be staked—is vodka. Once you notice root forming or green tops growing, add a bit of vodka to the water. Vodka stresses the plant and stops it from growing too tall. I mean, a bit—not a jigger—think 1 part vodka/7 parts water. Gin works too, tequilla might—but who has extra? Rubbing alcohol is good too but use less—1 to 10 ratio. Never tried mouthwash…let me know.

Climate/Conditions: Nobody cares where you live! If the inside temp is good for you, the bulbs will love it!

Place bulbs in a sunny spot—by a window, think bright! Watch and wait for it. . .

Christmas-blooming Amaryllis are sold everywhere from October-December (on sale from mid-December. Leftover amaryllis bulbs are on sale now—Google it!). But check to be sure they are still firm and not slimy.) Plant them whenever you want knowing it will take several weeks for them to bloom—but dang it’s fun to watch! This amaryllis was planted the beginning of December and just look!

Note: the water level in the vase—just a bit at the bottom and those roots are slurping it up!

See how my amaryllis are planted in tall clear vases? That’s because I’m lazy. Many spring flowering bulbs get top heavy and may need to be staked. No big deal, chopsticks tied with string, ribbon or twine work great to shore up droopers. And VODKA (reread note above).

First the bulb will sprout, YEAH! then green tops will grow, YEAH! Then the flower buds will begin forming—some bulbs get leaves first; some grow flower buds no leaves first, some get both flower buds and leaves at the same time. Just watch it and wait!

Paperwhites definitely tend to get leggy. Yep. vodka—can you say Martini?

Just so you know, these paperwhites are planted in a plastic-lined box with about 3 inches of dirt and some moss and grass on top that I dug out of my yard. 3 inches of dirt—truly. And they wouldn’t have cared if I forgot the dirt all together. Bulbs don’t care!

Once the flowers begin to bloom, move your bulb anywhere—no need to worry about light, sun, anything except heat. Keep your bulb away from heater vents. Move that bulb any place you’d like a spot of color. In fact, away from light is best as flowers will last longer away from light and warmth.

When it’s finished blooming, cut off the flower. Cut it close to the base of the bulb. If you like the look of the leaves, keep the bulb watered and enjoy them. Some, like Amaryllis will stay leafed out as long as you’ll let it. Other bulb leaves will slowly whither and yellow. When this happens. . .

If you have a yard: Dig a hole and toss the bulbs in. Don’t worry about right-side up or wrong-side down, just toss them in. Dig the whole about twice as deep as the bulb is big. Maybe they’ll bloom next year, maybe they’ll rot, maybe a squirrel will dig them up. Who knows? Who cares?

If you don’t have a yard, toss the bulbs in the compost bin.

Now for the tough part, 3 choices:

  1. wash well—I’m talking soapy water and mild bleach soaking for stones—then plant more bulbs you’ve stored in the fridge. Hurrah!

  2. wash well—same as above—store the stones, vases, containers to use again later.

  3. toss the whole mess—dirt & bulbs in compost! Good by bulbs! See your friends next year!

Yes, there is more to it than that. But, going deeper into bulb cultivation and storage doesn’t inspire me. If it does you, here’s a good how-to for keeping and storing Amaryllis.

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